For nearly a month we remained in the province of La Rioca, while General Loison was lifting the arrears of his contributions; afterwards, we marched for Burgos, to join our regiment in Andalusia. On the 25th of January we arrived at Madrid, and staid five days in a village near that capital, waiting for a detachment of our regiment on its way from France, with baggage, money, and a fresh supply of horses. This new detachment having arrived, an adjutant-major, under whose care it had been placed, took the command of our column of hussars. We crossed to La Mancha, and soon after arrived at Santa Cruz, a small town at the foot of the Sierra Morena. These mountains, which separate La Mancha and Andalusia, are inhabited by some colonists from different parts of Germany, brought thither by Count Olivades in 1781. The most aged of these emigrants followed us on foot for hours, to enjoy once more, before their death, the happiness of talking in their native language with such of our hussars as came from Germany.
When the mountains were passed, we found ourselves in Andalusia. A sensible difference was then experienced in the warmth of the atmosphere; and the grandeur of the prospect which expanded before us, formed a striking contrast to the barren black mountains we had just crossed. The husbandmen were busy with the olive harvest, and the landscape presented that cheerful animated aspect about the close of winter, which is only witnessed in more northern countries during the harvest or vintage months.
On our left were the mountains of the kingdom of Jaen; and in the distance we could distinguish the summits of the Sierra-Nevada of Grenada, covered with perpetual snow. These heights were the last retreats of the Moors before they were utterly expelled from Spain.
The road lay through extensive olive-plantations, under whose protecting shade grew alternately the corn and the vine. The fields were bordered with hedges of aloes, whose leaves were as sharp as lances, and whose taper stems shot upwards to the height of trees. Here and there, behind the habitations, we perceived thick planted orange-orchards, and on the unploughed borders of the streams grew laurels of a lively whiteness, which were then in flower. A few old palm-trees were still seen at intervals, which the clergy preserved in their gardens, that they might have their branches to distribute on Palm Sundays.
We marched either on the one or the other side of the Guadalquiver, and followed the windings of the river in its course between Andujar and Cordova. The country becomes less picturesque in approaching Seville. Sometimes we crossed fields of corn several miles in length, without meeting with a tree or a house, and at other times we passed over uncultivated tracts, where we saw only flocks of sheep.
Andalusia is, beyond comparison, the most fertile and the naturally richest country of Spain. It is a common proverb in La Mancha and the Castiles, that " the very water of the Guadalquiver, fattens more horses than the barley of other countries." The bread of Andalusia is reckoned the whitest and sweetest in the world, and the olives there are of a prodigious size. The climate is so pure and mild, that one may sleep almost the whole year in the open air. During the summer, and sometimes even in winter, people are seen sleeping all night under open porticos. A number of individuals not burdened with riches, travel without ever concerning themselves to seek shelter for the night. They carry their own provision, or purchase such food as women prepare for passengers, on chaffing dishes, at the entrance, or on the public squares, of great cities. The poor never ask each other, as is the case farther north, if they have a house to inhabit, but if they have a good cloak to keep out the suns heat, or to screen them from the winter rains.
At every step in Andalusia, still more so than any where else in the Peninsula, the traveller meets with remains and memorials of the ancient Arabs. It is the singular blending together of Eastern manners and customs with Christian usages, that chiefly distinguishes the Spanish people from all other Europeans.
The houses, in towns, are almost all constructed in the Moorish fashion. Within, they have a paved court of large flagstones, in the middle of which there is a basin, where fountains perpetually spout their waters, and refrigerate the air, under the shade of citron or cyprus-trees. Trellis-work of oranges is sometimes supported on the walls; and these trees carry all the year round their leaves, fruits, and flowers. The different apartments communicate with each other through the court. There is generally a porch within the gate, which opens to the street. In the ancient palaces of the Moorish kings and nobles--as, for instance, in the Alhambra of Grenada--these courts have peristyles or porticos running round them, whose numerous narrow arches are supported by very tall and elegant columns. Common houses have but a very plain small inner court, with a cistern in one corner, shaded by a lofty citron-tree. A kind of pitcher or jar, in which water is put to cool, is generally suspended near the door of such houses, or where there is a current of air. These pitchers are called alcarazas, an Arabic word, which shows that they were introduced into Spain by the Moors. *1
The Cathedral of Cordova, which is an ancient mosque, has within its walls one of these open courts. Like private houses, this court is shaded by citrons and cypresses, and contains basins constantly supplied with the living stream by upright jets of water. On entering the consecrated part of the mosque, or mezquita, for its ancient name is still retained, the sight of so many marble columns of different colours strikes the beholder with astonishment. These columns stand in parallel rows pretty near each other, and support a kind of open arcade, covered above with wood. *2 These numerous columns, with arcades overhead, are like a vast forest of palms, whose branches are regularly trained, and unite together, as they hang downwards.
The chapel where the book of the law was kept, is now; however, sacred to St Peter. In the middle of that ancient Mohammedan mosque, but now Christian temple, is placed the great altar for mass, and a choir where the canons chant the service of God. These transmutations are frequently to be met with in Spain, and mark the triumph of Christianity over Islamism.
The Andalusians rear immense flocks, which are fed on the plains in winter, and are driven to the mountains to seek their food about their tops during summer. The practice of transmigrating with their flocks to such. an extent at certain seasons every year, is derived from Arabia, where is is of great antiquity.
The Andalusian horses are descended from the generous breed which the Arabians brought with them long ago; and the same distinctions of pure and noble extraction, common among them, still exist in Spain. The horse of Andalusia is a spirited, lively, and gentle animal. The sound of the trumpet delights and inspires him ; the noise and smoke of the powder do not affright him. He is most sensible of his masters words and caresses, who never strikes, but flatters and encourages him when oppressed with fatigue. The horse seems then to gather new strength, and sometimes does, from emulation and a wish to please, what no blows could have compelled him to perform.
We had frequently some Spanish peasants attending us, conveying our baggage, provisions and ammunition, on their horses and mules. I once heard one of these peasants, after a long address to his horse, which was quite exhausted, whisper eagerly with a low voice in the ear of the animal, as if to spare him a general disgrace--"Take care lest you be seen." A boy just at the time was beating his ass with all his strength, and cursing the mother that began her. The asses are not treated so gently as the horses are, being reckoned quite insensible to honour.
A journey in Spain is commonly made on horseback, and goods are transported in some of the provinces on the backs of mules. The excellent roads which traverse Spain, are quite of modern origin. The streets of ancient towns are narrow and crooked, and each story of the houses projects the farther outwards, the higher it ascends. It is evident that such streets, which are of Moorish origin, were never made for carriages. The Andalusian and Spanish inns, excepting some in great cities built by Italians, are just large caravansaries, where the traveller gets only a lodging for himself and for his horses and mules. He must carry his own provisions with him, and sleep on his horse-cloth. The natives of the country travel in companies, when they leave the frequented roads. They carry fire-arms suspended at their saddle-bows, for fear of being robbed by the smugglers that infest the mountains of Grenada, and those of the south coast between Malaga and Cadiz. The country people, and particularly farm-servants, in some parts of Spain and Andalusia, are accustomed to sleep on mats, which they roll up and often carry about with them. This Eastern custom is a comment on our Saviours command to the paralytic person in scripture. "Take up thy bed, and walk."
The custom of sitting à la Mauresque, on round mats made of rushes, is still observed by women of the lower orders. In some convents of Spain also, where ancient manners are transmitted without change, the nuns still delight to sit like the Turks, without knowing that they are imitating the enemies of the Christian faith. A kind of veil of woollen stuff, called a mantilla, commonly worn by females in Andalusia, which conceals sometimes the whole face except the eyes, seems to be copied from the fashion that the Eastern women have of wrapping themselves in large scarfs of the same manufacture when they go out of doors. The Spanish dances, particularly those of the fandango kind, very much resemble the wanton manner of the East. Their way of playing the castanets dancing, and singing seguidillas, still exist in Arabia and Egypt, as well as in the Peninsula. A scorching wind which blows from the east is still called in Andalusia "The Medina wind."
The Andalusians and Spaniards in general, are religiously sober, like the Orientals, even in the midst of plenty. They regard intemperance as the abuse of Gods gifts, and despise those who are its slaves. Salt pork is daily eaten at their meals. This unwholesome article of food in hot climates, is forbidden by the sacred law of every Eastern nation, and they heartily detest it. When the Christians reconquered Spain, and before the Moors were completely expelled, there were many Mussulmans and Jews in Andalusia, who, for permission to stay still, assumed an aspect of conversion. The Spanish Christians then ate pork, in order to be known as such; and this test was, so to speak, a " profession of their faith."
There is such a striking analogy, even now, between the mode of fighting in some parts of Spain, and that of the different hordes of Arabians with whom the French fought on the banks of the Nile, that if one was to substitute Spanish, in place of Arabic names, on some pages of the history of the Egyptian campaign, it might pass for an account of the Spanish war.
The levies en masse of Spanish national and local troops fight in disorder, and charge with horrid cries. In an attack on level ground, they are distinguished, like the Arabians, by their impetuosity and their fury, mingled with despair and fanaticism. Like that race also, they often too soon abandon the prospect of success, and give up the contest even at the moment when they might claim the victory; but when they fight behind walls or intrenchments, they stand to the last. The inhabitants of Egypt fled beyond the desert to the fastnesses of their mountains. The people of Spain abandoned their homes at the approach of our troops, and carried their most precious effects to the hills. In Spain as in Egypt, our soldiers dared not loiter a step behind the army, at the peril of their lives. In fine, the people of South Spain cherish in their souls the same spirit of deep and lasting hatred, and yet the same lively fancy, which characterize the people of the East. Like them. they are discouraged by the least rumour of defeat, ansi rise in arms continually at the most distant prospect of success. The Spaniards, like the Arabians, often manifest the most horrid excess of cruelty to their prisoners, and at other times treat them with the noblest and most generous hospitality.
After passing Andujar, Cordova, Essica, and Carmona, we arrived at Seville, where we received orders from Marshal Soult to rejoin our regiment at Ronda, a town distant about ten leagues from Gibraltar. At first, we were struck at the deep tranquillity which reigned throughout Andalusia, most of the principal cities having sent deputations to King Joseph. But this peace was only apparent, and existed only in the plains where we bad numerous troops. The inhabitants of the kingdoms of Marcia, Grenada, and those of the province of Ronda--those, in a word, that dwell among the mountains which cross, surround, and border on Andalusia, or divide it from Estremadura and Portugal--all these had simultaneously taken arms.
We lefts Seville on the 18th of March, and slept at Outrera. On the 19th, we passed on to Moron, a small town at the foot of the Ronda mountains. The inhabitants of that place were on the eve of joining the mountaineers, who had been in arms for some time. The greater part of the population of Moron assembled in the great square on our arrival. The men regarded us with an expression of restrained fury, and seemed to watch our minutest movements. It was not to gratify a harmless curiosity, but to inure their eyes to the sight of enemies whom they intended soon to attack, and thus to dispel that fear of the future which acts so powerfully on imaginative people. Some females were dressed in cloth of English manufacture, on which were depicted the portrait of King Ferdinand VII., and those of the Spanish generals most distinguished in battle with the French. When we witnessed the fermentation and spirit of revolt which reigned throughout the town, we resolved on lodging all together in three adjoining inns. If we had separated to seek accommodation in the houses up and down, as we might have done with safety in the plain, we would doubtless have all been dead next morning.
We had but a very few men capable of combat, having many spare horses to lead, and the military chest, and equipments for the regiment conveyed by requisition. asses and mules, to attend to besides, which greatly retarded and impeded our march. A quarter-master and I were the only individuals in the detachment that had before been in Spain, or could speak the language. The former kept always beside the adjutant-major in command, to act as his interpreter. I rode always an hours journey a-head of the troops, to secure provisions and lodgings in places where we meant to rest.
Leaving Moron, we entered the mountains of Ronda, on our way to Olbera. I passed on as usual in advance of the troop to secure our quarters, and was accompanied by a hussar, and a young brigadier to act as a scout, chosen from the recruits for the occasion. About two leagues from Moron, I knocked at the door of a farmhouse among the mountains, and was answered by an elderly man in much agitation. I asked for something to drink, which he instantly supplied with extraordinary zeal. I learned afterwards, that a band of five armed smugglers were stationed in the house, and were alarmed lest they might be discovered.
The advanced guard soon after making its appearance, I was afraid I would not have time to prepare lodgings and provisions before the detach. meat arrived. We could only move at a slow pace, from the steep and rugged nature of the road, and because our horses were jaded with a march of several months. I gave my horse in charge to the hussar, and mounted that of the guide we had taken at Moron. I went on before my companions, and arrived in sight of Olbera unattended. A deep valley denuded of trees, into which the road suddenly descends, lay between me and the town, built on a steep rocky eminence which commands the whole country. The peasants at work in the neighbouring fields united in bands of eight or ten as 1 advanced, and, according to custom, inquired among themselves, with concern, what could be the cause of my arrival. They then left their labours, and followed in the path be. hind me. The towns people had observed me for some time, and were out in crowds on the rocks to get a better view.
I began to fear that there were no French in Olbera, as I had believed; and therefore halted at the bottom of the valley, surprised at the in-creasing agitation which I perceived. I hesitated for a moment if I should not return, but I thought it my duty to press on at every peril. My horse was already much fatigued with its journey, and I must have returned by a road exceedingly steep. Besides, I was followed at no distance by a troop of labourers, armed with mattocks. These people soon came up and surrounded me, inquiring "from what province I was, where I was going, and what news I brought." I saw at once, from these questions, that they imagined I was in the Spanish service--my uniform being of a deep brown colour had occasioned their mistake. I took care not to. undeceive them, not knowing if I dared do it without danger of my life. I hoped to gain time until my detachment would arrive, and gave them to understand that I was a Swiss officer in the service of the Junta; that I was going to Gibraltar; and added, to put them in good humour, that the Marquis de la Romana had just gained a great victory near Badajos. The peasants received these news with eagerness, and narrated them over again to each other, cursing the French with a thousand imprecations, which gave me a dismal idea of the fate awaiting me, if I should happen to be known.
I asked, in my turn, if there were any of these detested Frenchmen in their village? They replied, that King Joseph had been beaten at Gaucin with all his guards, that he had evacuated Ronda some days ago, and that, by this time, that city must have been occupied by 10,000 mountaineers. It was at Ronda we had orders to join our regiment; and if it was indeed in other hands, our detachment had no other fate to expect among the mountains but inevitable destruction. The countrymen turned aside to quench their thirst at a spring, and I continued to climb the bill by myself. Soon after I perceived five men, armed and equipped like soldiers, who hastened by another path to get before me, and entered Olbera before I arrived. From the noise I heard immediately after, I conceived they must have brought~the news of the advance of my troop, and that I was discovered. I again stopped, doubting if I should proceed. The inhabitants, observing me from the rocks, saw my uncertainty, and redoubled their shouts. The women, in great numbers, had posted themselves on a hill which commanded the entrance of the village; and their shrill voices, mingling with those of the men, fell on the ear like a tempest of whistling winds. I formed the resolution to ad vance. It would have been certain death to return. It would have been an acknowledgment of guilt, which rarely finds mercy from an irritated mob.
I was then met by a corregidor, an alcaid and two priests, preceded by five or six persons, with a young man at their head, whom I afterwards found out to be the Gracioso of the place. With a deriding manner, he said to me in Spanish, "You will be well received by the ladies of Olbera; they are truly fond of the French;" and many other such sneering speeches. One of his companions demanded in a stern voice, "What number of French were behind?" I replied, "about two hundred, more or less." "It is false," said be, with sufficient rudeness; "there is not a hundred, including yourself; these five men that have just come in, saw them at the farmhouse on the road from Moron." I now had reason to believe they knew who I was. The corregidor and the priests approaching, I thought for an instant, from their ungracious aspect, that they were about to propose I should receive extreme unction. Amid the uproar, I could plainly hear these words, "Hang him, he is a Frenchman! he is the devil himself! he is an incarnate devil!"
In a minute, to my great surprise, I saw the Spaniards disperse. The brigadier, the hussar, and the guide I had left behind, happened just then to appear on the opposite heights. Those who were stationed on the most elevated of the rocks, took them for the vanguard of my detachment; and, by shouts and signs, signified their approach to the multitude around me.
The corregidor and alcaid soon assumed a different manner. They told me, quite humbly, that they were the magistrates of the place, and that they paid their respects to me in obedience to the mandate of King Joseph, which ordained, that the constituted authorities throughout Spain should go out to meet the French, and treat them with attention. My confidence increasing with their submission and fears, I advised them, with some threats, to keep the multitude under authority; and ordered them instantly to prepare provisions for the troop.
The corregidor, by way of palliating their conduct, prayed that no notice might be taken of the behaviour of a few drunken fellows, who took delight in exciting the mob. When I inquired who the five armed men were, I had seen entering the village some minutes before; one of the clergymen replied, with an affected tone, and rather ironically, that they had been a bird-shooting, and that the bags they bore were filled with game. With this very lame excuse I was obliged to be contented. I alighted and walked on foot, with the priests and alcaids, to the guild-hall. in the great square at the head of the town, and commenced writing the soldiers billets along with them.
The brigadier who followed, having left the hussar with my horse at the entrance of the town, arrived at the gallop soon after, before the door of the house where I was. He had scarcely touched the ground, when the Spaniards rushed into the streets around, with shouts of savage fury. They expected to see a powerful troop, but when only one man rode through their village, they recovered from their mistake, and left their houses in a rage. So great was their vehemence, that they crushed each other in an arched way, which leads to the public square. Instantly I went to the balcony, and called on the brigadier, who, having come up, we shut ourselves in the council-room, and barricaded the door. The crowd halted for a moment to seize the brigadiers horse, pistols, and portmanteau. The leaders of the tumult then took possession of the staircase, and ascended to the door of the apartment in which we had enclosed ourselves, with the corregidor and the priests; and they called out to us through the partition instantly to surrender.
At. first I endeavoured, by means of the corregidor, whom I held fast, to order them to remain quiet, and told them our detachment would very soon arrive. I declared our determination to sell our lives dearly, and, if they dared to enter, their father priest would fall the first victim to their fury. Believing the door would be broken open, I retired some steps to the narrow entrance of the inner chamber, and kept hold of the parson as a shield to defend me in extremity. I drew my sabre, ordered the brigadier to do the same, and to remain at the end of the room to prevent the curate and the corregidor from taking hold of me. The shouts of the people grew louder and louder; and the inhabitants who came to speak with us, were driven back by those who had seized the staircase and the square. The door was violently shaken, end began to give way to the united efforts of the mob. I then said to the parson--"Forgive me, Father you see I cannot restrain the populace; I am compelled by necessity to make you share my fate, and we must die together."
The curate, terrified at the danger which threatened his brother as well as himself, advanced to the balcony, and called aloud to the inhabitants, that their hither priest would perish to a certainty, if they did not instantly retire. The women, hearing these words, uttered a yell of agony, and the crowd, with one sudden unanimous movement, fell back. The veneration of these people for their priests is most sincere and profound.
For some time longer the brigadier and I sustained this species of blockade. Soon after the place became quiet, and the shouts of the enraged rabble were hushed. The trampling of horses feet belonging to my detachment, which was forming in line at the lower end of the village, was now beard. The sound reached us all of a sudden, as distinctly as if it had been the deep hour of midnight.
In company with the corregidor and the parson, we now rejoined our troop. We took the clergyman with us as a safeguard. I related to my comrades the history of my reception, and advised them to proceed to Ronda the same day, after the horses were fed. In spite of all my remonstrances, the adjutant-major in command insisted on sleeping at Olbera, telling me, with a kind of reproach, "that it was a thing unknown for regular troops to discommode themselves for a few peasants." This officer had just come from France, where he had spent several years in the depot of his regiment, and knew nothing of the Spaniards.
We bivouacked in a meadow around the walls, near to an inn on the road below the village. The inhabitants were apparently quite peaceful during the remainder of the day, and supplied us with provisions. But in place of a young ox, which I had ordered, they brought us an ass cut into quarters. The hussars discovered that the veal, as they called it, had a very insipid taste. It was not long till we learned, from their own mouths, the strange deception these mountaineers had practised on us. They often cried to us afterwards while they fired, "You fed on asses flesh at Olbera." The most deadly insult that can be offered to a Christian, as they think, is to make him eat ass-flesh.
Not. having courage to attack us in our enclosure, they prepared to do it as we departed. They sent word to the inhabitants of the neighbouring villages, to place ambuscades, and to lie in wait for us, on our way next day to Ronda. Toward the evening they assumed a threatening aspect. They betook themselves to the rocks in great numbers, and formed a thick hedge around the access to our bivouack. Thus they remained, quite immoveable, surveying our slightest motions. Now and then some voices insulting the sentries broke on the stillness of the hour, but were instantly suppressed by the alcaids.
When it was pretty late, the parson presented himself before our bivouack, and begged to speak with me. He said that he had provided excellent lodgings for our officers, and pressed me earnestly to induce my comrades to accept them. His intention was, as we have since learned, to make us all prisoners; hoping that the soldiers, finding themselves unofficered, would next morning get into confusion.
I hesitated not to refuse his offer. The priest then inquired if I cherished any resentment for what had passed in the forenoon, and if I had any suspicion of the designs of the inhabitants. I replied, that I had neither resentment nor mistrust. lie then entreated me just to go home with him, saying it was his wish to treat me well. I consulted with my fellow-officers, and it was agreed that I should go unaccompanied to the village, to show the inhabitants that we had no design of vengeance, and thus prevent them from attacking us at night. My comrades were biassed by the hope that I would be able to send them some supper too. I again returned to the priest, and asked his sacred word that I would sustain no harm. He immediately gave it; and to prove my implicit confidence, I gave my sword to the sentinel in his presence, and accompanied him unarmed.
We passed through the town together. On every side the inhabitants as we passed made low reverences to my guide, but regarded me with a menacing expression. When they came so near as to make me be afraid of a surprise, the priest compelled them to retire by a glance or a frown. Such was the deference paid him on account of his sacred character.
We arrived at the house, and were received by his housekeeper. She was a tall woman, about thirty-five or forty years old. She first offered us chocolate and biscuits, and then served our repast on a table near the kitchen-fire. I sent off some supper to my comrades, and took my place at the table. The priest stationed himself opposite, and his housekeeper sat down on his right hand, almost under the chimney, which was very elevated. After a moments silence, the priest inquired if I would not go to mass next morning before I left the place; I replied, that I was not a Catholic. At these words his countenance altered; and his housekeeper, who had never seen a heretic, startled in her chair, made some unconscious exclamations, and sighed deeply. After uttering several Ave Marias between her teeth, she consulted the countenance of the priest, to judge how she ought to feel at the sight of such a terrible apparition as a heretic. (The popular descriptions, and the pictures in many country churches, represent heretics as darting flames from their mouths). The housekeeper resumed her composure, when she saw the priest carry on the conversation at his ease.
After supper, I was invited to sleep there, the priest declaring I must be much fatigued, and that he could give me a bed at least as good as our bivouack. Seeing I hesitated in my reply, he added, that it would be advisable to let the crowd disperse, and that I ought to wait a few hours. I then began to suspect that he intended to keep me in his house, and to deliver me to the populace. I was afterwards told this was in fact his design, and that he was the leader of the insurrection. Some reasons, however, have since induced me to believe, that, in detaining me a prisoner, he wished to save me from the doom determined by the inhabitants of the village and himself against my detachment.
As I was wholly in his power, I took care not to manifest the smallest symptom of distrust. I told him that I accepted his offers, in perfect confidence of my safety, since he had pledged his sacred word, and that I would go to sleep; but I begged he would awaken me in two hours at the latest, because my comrades, not seeing me return before midnight, would probably leave their bivouack, and set the town on fire. The priest showed me to the adjoining chamber. I went to bed--a luxury we seldom enjoyed in Spain; and he took away the lamp, after wishing me a good night.
The darkness of my situation did not now help to let me see the bright side of my fate. I repented having left my sabre. I regretted it as a faithful friend, that could have given me good counsel in my need. I listened, and heard the murmurs of people in the street, passing and repassing, under my windows. The priest from time to time gently opened the door, and put in his white head, with the lamp in his right hand, to see if I sleeped. I feigned myself in a deep slumber, and he quietly retired.
Several men entered the next room. They talked at first in a low tone of voice, but afterwards, in confusion, and all together. Then, all at once they fell quiet, as if they feared they would awake me, or that I might be listening to their discourse. I spent two hours almost in this agitated awkward situation, ruminating what course I ought to pursue. I determined on calling the ecclesiastic. He came immediately. I told him I wished instantly to join my troop. He laid down the lamp without saying a word, and left me, no doubt to consult with the Spaniards who were in the house, what he ought to do with me.
Who should enter my chamber at this moment, to my great joy, but our quarter-master, he who talked Spanish. He was accompanied by the corregidor. My comrades, he told me, were in the greatest uneasiness about my fate; and had sent him to inquire what had befallen me. He said the inhabitants already considered me their prisoner; that they designed to attack us next day; and declared that not one of us would be suffered to escape. I dressed myself with speed, and again reminded the priest of his sacred promise; telling him, my comrades threatened to take arms if I did not immediately return. Fortunately for me, the preparations for a general rise were not yet completed. The priest could no longer detain me. He called the corregidor and an alcaid, with a few others, who placed us in the middle of their number, and led us through the crowd to our bivouack.
The quarter-master who was thus opportunely sent to me, was a Norman, of as good metal as the steel of his sword. Under the appearance of the completest good nature, he concealed all the cunning peculiar to his countrymen. He got into the good graces of the inhabitants, by telling them that he was the son of an officer of the Walloon guards, detained a prisoner in France with Charles IV.--that he had been compelled to serve with us - and, for a long time, had sought an opportunity of deserting. The Spaniards of the mountains are, by turns, as cunning and as credulous as savages. They believed this fabrication, sympathized with the wily Norman, gave him money, and intrusted him with part of their plans. By him we were apprised of the design of the neighbouring villages to make a united attack on us, in great numbers, at a dangerous defile on the road to Ronda. That happy discovery saved us from a total defeat.
As we were going to depart next day, the priest and the corregidor came requesting an attestation, to show to the French who might afterwards visit Olbera, that we had been treated with attention. They trusted that the threatening appearance of the populace would have made us do as they desired. We replied that it could not be granted, unless they delivered up the arms taken from the brigadiers horse the preceding evening. We had several times before demanded them, but to no purpose.
The corregidor and the priest took the road in silence, leading to the top of the village; and very shortly after their departure, cries of alarm were heard. The inhabitants had just murdered six hussars and two farriers, who imprudently went to shoe their horses at the smithy. Then the shooting commenced. We instantly took to horse; and the body of the detachment followed the adjutant-major who commanded us to the place of rendezvous, about a gun-shot from the town. I remained at the bivouack, and kept with me ten hussars to guard the retreat and secure the baggage, with which the mules were not yet loaded, the drivers, who were Spaniards, having fled during the night.
One of my comrades, soon after, came to me to say, that our rear-guard would be surrounded, and that the enemy kept up a constant fire against the troops from the rocks above, and the windows at the end of the village through which we had to pass. Having no prospect of assistance, we formed the determination of cutting our road through the midst of our foes. My horse was shot through the neck, and fell. I speedily raised him, and reached the detachment. My comrade had his arm broken with a ball. One after another, I witnessed nearly all the hussars fall who followed me. Women, or rather exasperated furies, threw themselves on the wounded with horrid screams, and vied with each other in putting them to death with the cruelest torments. They put knives and scissors in their eyes, and exulted with savage joy at the sight of their blood. The excess of just rage against the invaders of their country, seemed to have changed their nature to the very core.
Our detachment all this time had kept waiting for us, facing the enemy. The inhabitants dared not leave their rocks and their abodes, nor could we get at them on horseback, to avenge the death of our companions. We called over our numbers in their sight, placed the wounded in the centre of the troop, and slowly again began our march.
Being unable to find a guide, and ignorant of the road, we took the first path which led away from the beaten track, on which we knew the mountaineers were lying in wait. We wandered about for some time at random. At length we saw a man riding on a mule, making haste to get away from a farmhouse. I followed and overtook him. Having placed him between two hussars of the advanced guard, I commanded him to direct us to Ronda, or take his choice of being stabbed. Without this countryman, whom we happened on by chance, it would have been quite impossible for us to find the way in this unknown and hostile region. This is a specimen of the difficulties we bad constantly to struggle with, not merely of a military nature, or such as might be foreseen and met with in the routine of regular war, but obstacles without number which the national spirit generated, and at every step, according to circumstances, sprung up and were multiplied without end.
After entering a pretty extensive valley, we perceived on the heights towards the left a troop of a thousand or fifteen hundred men observing our march. Among them we could distinguish some women and even children. They were the inhabitants of Settenil and the villages around, who, having learned that we had changed our road to avoid their ambuscade, had set off to pursue us. They were making all the haste possible, in hopes of getting between us and the passage of a defile in our front. We trotted our horses to get before them, and happily cleared the pass. Immediately after this, we were surrounded by a host of peasants, who separated tumultuously from the main body of the enemy, and kept firing on our flank. They followed us among the rocks, never venturing nearer than a gun-shot, lest they would be unable to regain the mountains if we made a charge. Priests and alcaids rode on horseback over the heights and directed the movements of the crowd. Such of our hussars as had the misfortune to be wounded and to fall, were in a moment mercilessly stabbed. One alone escaped. He had the presence of mind to say, that he wished to confess before he died, and the minister of Settenil saved him from their fury.
'We reached a frequented path on the side of a steep mountain. Here we passed some minutes to breathe our horses. The rocks over head screened us from the fire of the enemy above. At length we came in sight of Ronda. As we were rejoicing at the prospect of terminating our journey, we were struck at the sight of fresh enemies firing briskly from an ambush in a wood near the town. Our uneasiness now became extreme, for we dreaded that the French had abandoned the place. But with the most heartfelt joy, we beheld a party of hussars belonging to our own regiment coming to meet us. At a distance they had mistaken us for enemies.
We entered the town, and halted in the public square. Our comrades now came to embrace us, and to inquire the news from France and the rest of the world, to which they had become almost total strangers. We then dispersed into our different quarters, calculating on at least a few days rest, after the fatigues we had so long endured.
*1 - These jars have the same form, and are similarly used, as those described by M. Denon, in his travels in Egypt, which are manufactured on the banks of the Nile, between Dendera, Kene, and Thebes.
*2 - In presenting the reader with some farther account of the Mezquita of Cordova, perhaps it is unnecessary to make any apology. It is from a work to which few can have access. (Trans.)
"This edifice is justly considered as one of the most extraordinary works of architecture in the world. It was begun by King Abderame II. (Abdul Rahman), in the year A. D. 770, and was finished by his son, Issen, in A. D. 800. The intention of the founder was to erect a mosque which would surpass in grandeur and beauty every thing of the kind in the Moorish empire, and which would be the object of veneration to faithful Mussulmans in the West, as Mecca was in the East. He was fortunate enough to find an architect and workmen capable of seconding his designs. This mosque was erected on the site, and with the ruins of a Gothic church, which had also been built with the remains of a Roman temple, dedicated to Janus, that once stood on the same spot. The Moorish historians affirm, that the expense of the building was defrayed by the booty obtained in a battle gained by one of Abderames captains over the French and Catalans of the shore of Narbonne. This edifice answered the purpose of its erection until the time that Cordova was conquered by Ferdinand 11., King of Castile and Leon. It was then converted into a church, but without losing the name of mosque, which it still retains.
"The entrance to the temple is preceded by a space of 224 feet, measured by the length of the edifice. This enclosure is open above, and surrounded on three sides with a portico supported by 72 columns. It forms the court or garden of the mosque. The water of three fountains, where the Mussulmans in former times made their ablutions, and the shade of numerous palm, cypress, and orange-trees, keep the air perpetually cool. It is a kind of hanging garden, raised above a spacious basin. The earth, elevated four or five feet, in shading the arcade sustains and nourishes trees of beautiful foliage, among which are to be seen oranges 35 or 40 feet in height, and palms of 60 feet. In the midst of this never-failing verdure, on the north front of the edifice, which forms the fourth side of the quadrangle, there is a lofty square tower, full of windows, terminated at top by a rotunda. This tower answers all the purposes of a spire. Every aperture of this species of cloister, constructed in the Roman style of architecture, is adorned with columns, the number of which amounts to more than a hundred. The garden is the most delightful promenade about Cordova. The principal entrance, called the "Gate of Pardon," is of modern construction."--Labordes "Pittoresque Voyage De LEpagne. Vol. III. Paris.--The beautiful Vignette on the Title-page of this volume is taken from the entry of the Mosque, from whence two sides of the building and the tower are to be seen.
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